:root{--ink:#352939;--blue:#4b304a;--teal:#79546c;--paper:#f9f5f8;--sand:#eedbc9;--line:#e1d5df;--muted:#695d69;--white:#fff;--accent:#995332}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:24px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.7 Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{color:var(--teal)}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}p{margin:0 0 1.3em}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-weight:400;line-height:1.14;margin:0}h1{font-size:clamp(34px,5.1vw,66px);letter-spacing:-.035em}h2{font-size:clamp(27px,3vw,35px);letter-spacing:-.025em}h3{font-size:25px}button,input{font:inherit}button{cursor:pointer}button:disabled{cursor:not-allowed}address{font-style:normal}figure{margin:0}::selection{background:#e8dce8}.wrap{width:min(1160px,calc(100% - 80px));margin:auto}.skip-link{position:absolute;left:20px;top:-100px;background:var(--white);padding:10px;z-index:20}.skip-link:focus{top:16px}.edition-bar{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.17em;text-transform:uppercase;line-height:1.2}.edition-bar .wrap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:12px 0;gap:15px}.masthead{border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}.masthead-inner{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding:27px 0}.brand{display:inline-flex;gap:13px;align-items:center;text-decoration:none;flex-shrink:0}.brand img{width:43px;height:43px}.main-nav{display:flex;gap:27px;align-items:center;font-size:12px}.main-nav a{text-decoration:none;padding:8px 0}.main-nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.article-head{padding:49px 0 32px;max-width:890px}.eyebrow{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;align-items:center;margin:0 0 23px;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em;line-height:1.5}.ad-label{border:1px solid var(--muted);border-radius:2px;padding:4px 8px;font-size:9px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.11em}.topic{color:var(--teal)}.deck{font:21px/1.5 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;color:var(--muted);max-width:780px;margin:22px 0 25px}.article-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:9px 19px;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:17px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);max-width:780px}.hero{position:relative;background:var(--blue)}.hero img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:2.08;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 44%}.hero-caption{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding:13px 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:11px;line-height:1.5}.hero-caption .caption-index{color:var(--accent);font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.16em;flex-shrink:0;padding-top:2px}.hero-caption p{margin:0}.layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:220px minmax(0,730px);justify-content:space-between;gap:55px;margin-top:42px;margin-bottom:55px}.rail{font-size:13px}.rail-inner{position:sticky;top:25px}.rail-title{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:15px;margin-bottom:16px}.contents{padding:0;list-style:none;margin:0 0 32px}.contents li{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.contents a{display:flex;gap:12px;padding:12px 0;text-decoration:none;line-height:1.5}.contents span{color:var(--accent);font-size:10px;padding-top:3px}.rail-note{background:#efe5ed;padding:19px 18px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.65}.rail-note strong{display:block;margin-bottom:7px;font-size:12px}.rail-note p{margin:0}.article-body{min-width:0}.article-body .lead{font:23px/1.57 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;margin-bottom:25px}.article-section{margin:40px 0}.section-number{display:block;color:var(--accent);font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.15em;margin-bottom:10px}.article-section h2{margin-bottom:21px}.article-section p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.source-ref{font:10px/1 Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;vertical-align:super;white-space:nowrap;margin-left:3px;color:var(--teal)}.scenario{background:#f1e7ef;border-left:3px solid var(--teal);padding:24px 28px;margin:32px 0}.scenario h3{margin:10px 0 15px}.mini-label{color:var(--teal);font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.15em}.scenario p{font-size:16px;margin-bottom:15px}.scenario p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.inline-image{margin:32px 0}.inline-image img{width:100%;height:auto}.inline-image figcaption{font-size:11px;line-height:1.65;color:var(--muted);padding:10px 0 0}.split-image{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:24px;align-items:center;margin:36px 0}.split-image figcaption{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.6;margin-top:9px}.split-note{font:21px/1.5 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif}.split-note p{margin:0}.pull-line{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:23px 0;font:25px/1.45 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;margin:33px 0}.practical{background:var(--blue);color:var(--paper);padding:31px 34px;margin:34px 0;border-radius:3px}.practical .mini-label{color:#ead5c6}.practical h2{font-size:32px;margin:12px 0 18px}.practical p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.7;color:#f1e8ed}.fact-list{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px 26px;margin:23px 0 26px;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid #967b91;border-bottom:1px solid #967b91}.fact-list div{min-width:0}.fact-list dt{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.11em;color:#e0cddb;margin-bottom:5px}.fact-list dd{font-size:15px;margin:0}.cta{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:13px;background:var(--sand);color:var(--blue);padding:14px 20px;min-height:49px;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;border-radius:2px;line-height:1.45}.cta:hover{background:#f6e7d9;color:var(--blue)}.cta .arrow{font-size:20px;font-weight:400}.cta-note{font-size:10px!important;margin:13px 0 0!important;color:#e0cddb!important}.source-box{margin:30px 0 0;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:12px;line-height:1.7;color:var(--muted)}.source-box summary{cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);font-weight:700;padding:6px 0}.source-box ol{margin:16px 0;padding-left:22px}.source-box li{margin-bottom:9px}.source-box p{margin:13px 0 0}.newsletter{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:33px 0 38px;margin:55px 0 50px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:50px;align-items:start}.newsletter h2{font-size:31px;margin:10px 0 12px}.newsletter p{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.newsletter-ui label{display:block;font-size:11px;margin-bottom:7px}.newsletter-controls{display:flex;gap:9px}.newsletter-controls input{min-width:0;flex:1;width:100%;font-size:13px;border:1px solid #cbc0c9;border-radius:2px;background:#fff;padding:12px;color:var(--muted);height:45px}.newsletter-controls button{border:0;background:#d2bdca;color:#43313f;font-size:12px;padding:10px 18px;border-radius:2px;flex-shrink:0}.newsletter-ui .consent{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:9px;margin-top:14px;font-size:11px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--muted)}.consent input{margin:3px 0 0;flex-shrink:0}.newsletter-ui .form-note{font-size:10px;margin:12px 0 0;color:var(--muted)}.site-footer{padding:35px 0 170px;background:#eee6ec;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:12px;line-height:1.75}.footer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr 1fr;gap:38px}.footer-brand{font:27px/1.2 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;margin:0 0 17px}.site-footer h3{font:10px/1.5 Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.16em;margin:0 0 14px}.site-footer p{margin-bottom:10px}.legal-nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 21px;border-top:1px solid #d6c6d3;margin-top:28px;padding-top:21px;font-size:11px}.footer-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-top:24px;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.cookie-dismiss{position:fixed;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip-path:inset(50%);bottom:0;left:0}.cookie-notice{position:fixed;bottom:20px;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);z-index:10;width:min(1030px,calc(100% - 36px));background:var(--white);border:1px solid #d8c7d2;border-left:3px solid var(--teal);box-shadow:0 6px 35px #38263b20;border-radius:4px;padding:18px 23px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.6}.cookie-notice strong{font-size:13px;display:block;margin-bottom:3px}.cookie-notice p{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.cookie-actions{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:20px;flex-shrink:0;font-size:11px}.cookie-close{display:inline-flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border:1px solid var(--blue);border-radius:2px;padding:10px 14px;min-height:40px;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px;color:var(--blue);white-space:nowrap}.cookie-close:hover{background:#f3eaf0}.cookie-dismiss:checked~.cookie-notice{display:none}.cookie-dismiss:focus-visible~.cookie-notice .cookie-close{outline:3px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:3px}.legal-main{max-width:820px;margin:50px auto 70px}.legal-main .deck{font-size:19px}.legal-main h1{font-size:clamp(36px,4.2vw,51px)}.legal-content{margin-top:36px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.85}.legal-content h2{font-size:27px;margin:32px 0 16px}.legal-content h3{font-size:21px;margin:23px 0 13px}.legal-content ul{padding-left:21px}.legal-content li{margin-bottom:8px}.legal-content dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:175px 1fr;gap:8px 20px;margin:22px 0}.legal-content dt{color:var(--muted);font-size:13px}.legal-content dd{margin:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.legal-panel{background:#f1e7ef;padding:22px 27px;margin:28px 0}.legal-panel p:last-child{margin:0}.legal-table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:13px;margin:24px 0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.legal-table th,.legal-table td{text-align:left;padding:12px 10px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}.legal-table th{background:#efe5ed;font-weight:600}.legal-table th:first-child{width:31%}.credit-thumb{width:180px;margin-bottom:12px}.breadcrumbs{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:28px}.breadcrumbs a{margin-right:8px}.contact-cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:22px;margin:28px 0}.contact-card{background:#f1e7ef;padding:24px}.contact-card h2{margin:0 0 16px;font-size:24px}.contact-card p{font-size:14px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.draft-field{font-size:13px;background:#f7ebdf;padding:14px 17px;border-left:2px solid var(--accent);margin-top:20px}.draft-field strong{display:block;margin-bottom:4px}
@media(max-width:1000px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 54px)}.layout{grid-template-columns:170px minmax(0,1fr);gap:35px}.main-nav{gap:18px}.footer-grid{gap:26px}.cookie-notice{padding:16px 20px;gap:18px}.cookie-actions{gap:14px}.hero img{aspect-ratio:1.9}}
@media(max-width:760px){body{font-size:16px;line-height:1.78}.wrap{width:calc(100% - 38px)}.edition-bar .wrap{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.12em}.edition-right{display:none}.masthead-inner{padding:22px 0;display:block}.brand img{width:36px;height:36px}.main-nav{margin-top:21px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:10px;font-size:11px;gap:22px;flex-wrap:wrap}.article-head{padding:31px 0 24px}.eyebrow{margin-bottom:18px;gap:10px;font-size:9px}.ad-label{font-size:8px}h1{font-size:39px;line-height:1.1}.deck{font-size:18px;margin:20px 0}.article-meta{font-size:10px;gap:7px 14px}.hero img{aspect-ratio:1.5;object-position:50% 50%}.hero-caption{gap:13px;font-size:10px;padding:12px 0}.hero-caption .caption-index{font-size:8px}.layout{display:block;margin-top:26px;margin-bottom:35px}.rail{display:none}.article-body .lead{font-size:21px;line-height:1.58}.article-section{margin:32px 0}.article-section h2{font-size:28px;margin-bottom:18px}.scenario{padding:20px;margin:28px 0}.scenario h3{font-size:25px}.scenario p{font-size:15px}.inline-image{margin:28px 0}.split-image{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:16px}.split-note{font-size:20px}.split-image img{width:100%}.pull-line{font-size:23px;padding:20px 0}.practical{padding:25px 22px}.practical h2{font-size:29px}.fact-list{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px}.fact-list dd{font-size:13px}.cta{width:100%;font-size:12px;padding:13px 12px}.newsletter{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px;padding:28px 0;margin:37px 0}.newsletter h2{font-size:29px}.newsletter-controls{gap:8px}.newsletter-controls button{padding:8px 14px;font-size:11px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:23px}.footer-brand{font-size:27px}.site-footer{padding:30px 0 225px;font-size:11px}.site-footer h3{margin-bottom:9px}.legal-nav{gap:12px 18px;font-size:10px;margin-top:22px}.footer-bottom{flex-direction:column;gap:8px;font-size:10px}.cookie-notice{bottom:12px;width:calc(100% - 24px);display:block;padding:13px 15px;font-size:11px;line-height:1.55;max-height:calc(100vh - 35px);overflow-y:auto}.cookie-notice strong{font-size:11px}.cookie-actions{margin-top:11px;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px}.cookie-close{padding:7px 12px;min-height:35px;font-size:10px}.legal-main{margin:32px 0 48px}.legal-main h1{font-size:36px}.legal-main .deck{font-size:18px}.legal-content{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;margin-top:28px}.legal-content h2{font-size:25px}.legal-content dl{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:3px}.legal-content dd{margin-bottom:12px}.legal-table{font-size:11px}.legal-table th,.legal-table td{padding:10px 8px}.legal-panel{padding:19px}.contact-cards{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:16px}}
@media(max-width:380px){h1{font-size:35px}.wrap{width:calc(100% - 30px)}.main-nav{gap:16px}.fact-list{grid-template-columns:1fr}.newsletter-controls{flex-direction:column}.newsletter-controls button{height:43px}.cookie-actions{font-size:10px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}
@media print{.cookie-notice,.cookie-dismiss,.main-nav,.rail,.newsletter,.skip-link{display:none!important}.wrap{width:100%}.layout{display:block}.site-footer{padding:25px 0}.hero img{max-height:340px;object-fit:contain}.article-section{break-inside:avoid}.masthead-inner{padding:12px 0}.practical{background:#fff;color:#000;border:1px solid #888}.practical p,.practical .mini-label,.cta-note{color:#000!important}.cta{border:1px solid #888}.source-box{display:block}.footer-grid{display:block}}

.brand img.brand-logo{width:280px;height:auto;max-width:100%}.footer-logo{display:block;max-width:230px;margin:0 0 17px}.footer-logo img{width:100%;height:auto}
@media(max-width:760px){.brand img.brand-logo{width:254px}}
@media(max-width:380px){.brand img.brand-logo{width:240px}}

.trip-brief{margin-top:26px;padding:22px 25px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:7px}.trip-brief h2{font-size:23px;margin:0 0 17px}.brief-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:22px}.brief-grid strong,.brief-grid span{display:block}.brief-grid strong{font-size:14px}.brief-grid span{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}.trip-brief>p{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:18px 0 0}.top-trip{margin-top:20px}.top-trip>p{font-size:11px;line-height:1.7;color:var(--muted);margin-top:12px;max-width:680px}.mobile-contents{display:none}.observation-cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:13px;margin:30px 0}.observation-cards>div{padding:20px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:6px}.observation-cards h3{font-size:21px;line-height:1.3;margin:12px 0}.observation-cards p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;margin:0}.packing{padding:25px;background:#f1e7ef;border-left:3px solid var(--teal);margin:30px 0}.packing h3{font-size:25px;margin:10px 0 15px}.packing ul{padding-left:21px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.8}.packing li{margin:8px 0}.packing>a{font-size:12px}.trip-faq{margin:35px 0}.trip-faq h2{font-size:30px;margin:12px 0 20px}.trip-faq details{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:17px 0}.trip-faq summary{font-size:15px;font-weight:bold;cursor:pointer;line-height:1.7}.trip-faq details p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;margin:14px 0 0}.trip-faq details a{font-size:12px;display:inline-block;margin-top:12px}.trip-prices{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:20px;margin:24px 0}.trip-prices span{display:block;font-size:12px}.trip-prices strong{display:block;font:36px/1.4 Georgia,serif;margin-top:6px}.practical .price-date{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8}.cta{min-height:50px}.trip-faq,.packing{scroll-margin-top:22px}
@media(max-width:760px){.mobile-contents{display:block;margin-top:23px;padding:16px 19px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:5px}.mobile-contents summary{cursor:pointer;font-size:13px;font-weight:bold}.mobile-contents nav{display:grid;gap:8px;margin-top:14px}.mobile-contents a{font-size:13px;padding:5px 0}.brief-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:16px}.trip-brief{padding:20px}.observation-cards{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}.observation-cards>div{padding:20px}.observation-cards p{font-size:15px}.packing{padding:22px}.trip-faq h2{font-size:28px}.trip-faq summary{padding:4px 0}.trip-faq details p{font-size:16px}.top-trip .cta{width:100%}}
@media(max-width:380px){.trip-prices{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:14px}}

.email-error{color:#9a2525!important;font-size:14px!important;margin-top:13px!important}.email-error[hidden]{display:none}.email-demo{font-size:12px!important;line-height:1.7;color:#59636a}.newsletter-input[aria-invalid="true"]{border:2px solid #9a2525}.newsletter-btn{cursor:pointer}.newsletter-section form>label{display:block;font-size:13px;margin-bottom:8px}#newsletter-success{border:1px solid #d5ddd5;border-radius:12px;padding:0;width:min(460px,calc(100% - 32px));color:#25332e;background:#fff;box-shadow:0 15px 60px #0003}#newsletter-success::backdrop{background:#17231c88}.success-content{padding:30px}.success-content h2{font-size:25px;line-height:1.35;margin:0 0 20px}.success-content p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8}.success-email{font-weight:bold;overflow-wrap:anywhere;padding:12px 15px;background:#f1f4ef;border-radius:5px}#success-detail{font-size:12px;color:#59636a;margin:18px 0}.success-content button{width:100%;min-height:46px}.newsletter-section input:focus-visible,.newsletter-section button:focus-visible,#success-close:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #697f5b;outline-offset:3px}

.newsletter-btn{background:var(--blue,#4b304a);color:white;border:0;border-radius:4px;padding:13px 18px;cursor:pointer}.newsletter-input{font:14px Arial,sans-serif}.newsletter-ui .email-demo{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;margin-top:13px}.newsletter-ui .email-error[hidden]{display:none}.newsletter-ui input[aria-invalid="true"]{border:2px solid #9a2525}.newsletter-ui .consent input{flex:0 0 auto}.newsletter-ui .consent{display:flex;gap:9px;align-items:flex-start}.newsletter-ui form{margin:0}#newsletter-success .newsletter-btn{width:100%;min-height:46px}#newsletter-success h2{font-size:25px}#newsletter-success p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8}